When spending the extra money on a custom suit, we'd all like to know that it was spent wisely. And to be certain, we need to know what steps will be taken by the custom suit provider or tailor when measuring for the right fit. These are just a few of the things you can expect when taking the trip.
First, your suit provider will likely decide whether to grant you a short, regular, or long suit depending on your height. You'll want to pay attention and ask questions if the size chosen for you seems abnormal. The general rules are as follows:
• Short - 5'5" to 5'7"
• Regular - 5'8" to 5'10"
• Long - 5'11" to 6'2"
Even if you fall squarely into any one category, other factors may come into play and your suit provider may opt for a size outside of your height range. For instance, if your height would normally call for a regular suit, your tailor still might opt to fit you for a long suit if you have a longer than average torso. The same might be true if you have long arms. Although suits are properly fit in respect to our body frames, your personal taste in fashion or comfort level with a particular fit might be worth consideration. Be open and honest with your tailor for the best result, and ask questions when necessary. Good tailors like Balani Custom Clothiers will answer your questions honestly and take your feedback into consideration when tailoring your suit.
Your pants will be sized in a similar way; short, regular, or long. Depending on your own sense of style, you may want to take part in this decision. Listen to your tailor's input.
After you've chosen the length of the suit, it's time to figure out your specific size. This will typically range from 36 to 54. Your tailor will wrap a tape measure around the widest part of your torso in order to ascertain this number. You might be told not to hold your breath, so make sure you aren't. This will allow the most accurate measurement possible.
You'll hopefully be given a variety of other choices to take into consideration, and numerous other measurements will be made, including a measurement for the base of the neck, around your elbow and up the arm, the waist, the hips, and the entire length of the pants. The aforementioned are the ones the count the most when being sized for a suit. Keep a mental checklist when being measured.
Making Sure the Job Has Been Done Right
Here are a few basic tips that might be useful once the finished suit is in your possession. It should fit perfectly, so don't be afraid to say something if you think it doesn't.
1. If you have shoulder pads, make sure that they don't go any further than your shoulders. They shouldn't be at all unsightly. This step ensures that your suit jacket isn't any wider than it should be.
2. The proportions might differ slightly depending on how many buttons your suit has. As a rule of thumb, the middle button of a three button suit should not lie beneath your belly button, and neither should the top button of a two button suit.
3. A good suit should be snug and comfortable but not tight. Fasten the top button, and then slide your hand beneath the lapels. This should be easy, but if you were to make a fist and do the same, it should put a strain on the fastened button.
4. Relax and hang your arms limp at your sides. The end of your sleeve should be roughly even with the base of your thumb. Your knuckles and the bottom of your suit should be nearly aligned. Also, there should be anywhere from a quarter inch to a half inch of shirt cuff showing. Obviously, this may reveal more about your dress shirt fitting improperly than about your suit's custom fit, so don't dwell on this if it isn't perfect.
5. Traditionally, there is about an inch of break where your pants meet your shoes. But depending on the choice you made with your tailor, you might have a full break, half break, or no break at all. No break is the most casual, half break is the most professional, and a full break is a more stylish approach.
Now that you know what steps the tailor will take when making measurements, and what your suit should look and feel like, you can be more confident in a trip to your custom suit provider. Don't settle for anything less than perfection.